Friday, August 14, 2009


This is the last post for this trip. I usually write a summary of the trip to try to capture it after reflecting on it for a few days.

I rode 5,148 miles from start to end. We were gone from July 22 to August 10, 20 days. Some days we rode a lot (535 miles); other days only a little (~125 on one day). The bike performed flawlessly. Always started and stopped. I actually had two headlight bulbs burn out; one on about the 3rd day and one about 3 days from the end. These big BMW bikes are very hard on headlight bulbs for some unknown reason. The Motolights did their thing with no flaw. It used about one-quarter quart of oil.

The roads in Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine, Nova Scotia, and New Britain were, in many places, terrible. Full of big cracks; missing pavement, potholes, and surface irregularities that were a challenge for the suspension. I would not want to drive my car there for fear of knocking the wheel alignment out of whack. They are indeed rough!

We had very good weather, overall. It rained the second day of the ride and the next-to-the last day of the ride. We hit a few very light showers a couple of times, but it was dry overall during daylight hours. It rained or showered overnight many nights. So, we lucked out that the rain was at night almost all the time.

We rode 5 ferries; Cape May, Bar Harbor, two small, short cable-driven ones, and one to Prince Edward Island. The longest one was from Bar Harbor, and the shortest one was probably 250 yards long. Costs ranged from $171 (Bar Harbor) to free (Prince Edward Island). Each was unique.

Food was good. And reasonable. I was expecting high meal prices, but they were in line with what I'm used to here in NC.

It was a good trip, seeing sights that I've never seen before. The most amazing was in Prince Edward Island, where the land (with farming) ran right to the sea, with no buffer or dunes or anything. Land, then sea. And the brick red soil that dropped off to the sea. Just wild!

Lodging was available without a problem. Prices were about what you'd expect, with an average of about $100 per night. My favorite lodging was on Prince Edward Island, where we stayed in a cabin in a green grass field about 100 yards from the ocean. It felt like we were at the end of the world.

My favorite place was Meat Cove. Located at the northernmost tip of Cape Breton Island, access was via a curvy paved road for about 20 miles and then 5 miles of dirt road. The scenery was awesome, and I had the best meal at the Chowder hut, a bowl of seafood chowder that was out of this world.

But even after all the exceptional things we did and saw, getting home is great. There truly is no place like home.

Adieu until the next adventure.

Random Thoughts

We experienced various electronic equipment problems along the way. While none of them were show-stoppers, each was a hassle when it was occurring. We have bike-to-bike communications that generally work pretty well. On this trip, we had trouble getting the VOX settings right. VOX determines when the microphone cuts on and off. If it is too sensitive, it is on too much, picking up sounds of breathing, wind, engine noise, etc. If it is not sensitive enough, you have to yell in order to be heard. At one point, Gary’s VOX was so sensitive that I could hear every sound he made; his microphone was “on” 100% of the time, which did not allow me to be able to tell him his VOX was 100%. I unplugged my system because I did not want to hear him breathe and grunt. Complicating this was a third rider, Linda. So, we had to stop several times, take the seat off, and make adjustments to try to get it right. After several adjustments, we got it working pretty well. We also learned that an immediate response from the “listener” was not heard by the first speaker because VOX stays on for several seconds when sound has stopped. But it is working well now.

My satellite radio lost its antennae along the way. No, not physically lost it, but the connection between the antennae and the radio became corroded or something, making the connection troublesome. I could wiggle the radio in its cradle and get it to work a few seconds, but it did not last. I tried some dielectric grease on the connections to see if that would help. It didn't help a bit. When I got home, I contacted Sirius to see if the warranty was still good. It was, so a replacement is now on the way. This has happened before, so it’s a weak spot in the system.

Gary’s GPS started working weirdly. At one point along the way, when we were riding and he had not touched the unit, it asked him if he wanted to save the spot where we were. It shouldn’t do that. Also, his screen started doing several things that were not right. I think he may have to send it back to Garmin to have it checked out. The routing works good, so it’s not the end of the road. Oh, and he lost his antennae to his XM radio one day, similar to my connection problem, too. However, his antennae problem was corrected by removing the Garmin and reinstalling it on its cradle.

Cultural differences:

I noted along the way several differences between us southerners and these Canadians. One involved different words, such as:

-Overlook is lookoff. The sign used to denote a place where you can pull off the road to see a scenic site.

-Toilet room is wash room.

-Some manholes are square. I notice manholes when on the bike because they pose some hazard, especially when wet. And I’ve never seen a square manhole until this trip. While there’s a mix of both round manholes and square ones, it seems that the older communities have more square ones than newer communities. It’s just different from home.

-French fries with gravy. Ugh! I tried some, and have to say that the fries I got, with the gravy they provided, were not good. I guess it’s one of those things that if you grow up eating them, they’re good. I didn’t, and they weren’t!

-Their hazard signs are different. The sign is covered in a checkerboard design with an arrow or pictorial showing what the hazard is. After learning them, I like them better than our hazard sign. Just different…

One thing that is worth iterating again—the people in Nova Scotia are the most friendly and helpful people I’ve ever come across. Their attitude is genuinely “what can I do to help”. It seems to be pervasive in the culture of the region, and I love it. If the rest of the world could only have this attitude, we would have a better planet.

Why do I do the blog? It’s for several reasons. One primary reason is to have a place where I can capture my thoughts and feelings and experiences so that they are easy for me to recall later. When you’re on the road for multiple weeks, the days run together, and it’s hard to remember what happened where and when. The Blog takes care of that problem.

Another primary reason is that my brother, Jeff, seems to really enjoy reading them. He tells me that it’s the first thing he does when he gets up in the morning, to look for a new post of my adventures. Knowing that it means that much to him makes my heart warm. So, even though a lot of nights, I’m pretty tired from riding, I want to blog for him. I also do it for other friends and family. I know some others read it regularly, and it’s a good way to share my life with them. I’m not offended if some don’t read it; I’m just happy that some do seem to enjoy it.

So, that’s really why I do it. I like doing it, but truthfully there are some nights when it’s a labor of love.

Monday, August 10, 2009

Frackville, PA to Home

The day started early; Gary set the clock for 6:00am, even though we had agreed on 6:45. Operator error...

Not a bad thing, though, we were ready to get home, and knew it was going to be very hot on the last part of the day. Temperatures around 100 degrees were expected at home.

The morning was cool, and foggy at the hotel, but clear and bright within a few miles of home. Traffic was moderate and moving for the whole ride.

After about 4 hours of riding, it was time for us to split. I 81 works its way south and west, towards his home. Rather than staying on it all the way back and then heading east for home, I decided to split earlier and work south and east to I 95, which runs about 20 miles east of home.

As I headed further south, it got hotter and hotter. I wet and put on the Sarah vest, a special vest that was soaked in water (it has a special polymer that absorbs moisture and releases it slowly for cooling). The vest helped with the oppressive heat.

Finally, I got on I 95 north of Richmond and then ground on home, finishing about 4:00pm. Not a bad ride, but hot and boring.

Mileage for the day was 479.

Home sweet home!

Sunday, August 9, 2009

White River Junction, VT to Frackville, PA

Our final day of mountains started with cool, cloudy weather. A good day for the Bumblebee! We got on the road and rode in the mountains of Vermont, just enjoying the roads and scenery. With it being Sunday morning, traffic was light.

Our goal for the day was to get into southern Pennsylvania for the night.

The first few hours of the day were spent heading south and west towards I 81, the road to make good time home.

The ride went as planned, not making a lot of time; we were enjoying the roads and the ride. Eventually, we got on I 81 and started riding at some speed.

We rolled into Bennington, VT and noted fiberglass moose, decopauged in various motifs. So, we decided to stop and look around the town a bit. We walked several streets, noting the moose, sometimes one alone, sometimes several, and some with calves. All done in bright colors and very nice. The town was celebrating Moose Fest, an all-summer event to attract tourists. It worked!

Gary found a brew-pub, so we had lunch while in town. It was a nice stop on the road.

Shortly, the rain started. Light at first, and then more seriously later. It would rain hard, then light, then hard again. Not a frog-strangler, but a serious rain at times. The Bumblebee was the right thing for a day like today.

After several hours making good time, we came to a traffic slowdown. It was backed up as far as we could see. Having no other options, we went with the flow (a very slow flow). We were moving about 2/3 of the time, but sitting still a lot. After several miles of stop and go when we saw a sign that we hoped explained the problem. It did. It read "Lanes merge in two miles". Two more miles of stop and go!

Finally, we got to the merge spot, went through it (a bridge with one lane under construction) and took off again. About a mile later, the same thing repeated. Again, we took off, trying to make some time. About a mile later, another repeat! Damn, we were getting pretty frustrated.

So, we detoured at the next exit, running several miles to the east, then several miles to the south, then several miles back to I 81. The detour was successful!

We had lost at least an hour of travel time in the slow downed areas, bu tthe rain had stopped. Blue skies were showing out in the west.

So, we headed south again. There was one more slowdown, but it was not bad.

About dark, we found a motel and stopped for the night.

Across the parking lot from the motel was the Dutch Treat restaurant. We decided to try it for dinner, and were glad when we did. I had some Blueberry Crumb Pie and coffee, an excellent dinner.

Miles for the day--about 450.

We made about 450 miles for the day.

Dartmouth, NS to Freeport, ME

A long day on the road. Left Dartmouth at 8am, just after Gary's wife left for the airport. Headed north and west into New Brunswick, then south on Hwy 1 towards Maine.

The roads were fast, and traffic light, for the most part. It was a good ride under sunny skies and cool air.

Got through Customs in Maine with no problem and continued heading south. We got hungry along the way and found a good pub on the way to Black Harbor. We both had fresh fried clams; they were very good.

Continued south to Freeport. I wanted to visit the LL Bean store, a store I had visited 19 years ago in an earlier life. I didn't have anything in particular that I wanted or needed to buy; I just wanted to see it to see what it looked like.

It was larger and had changed some, but somehow it felt much more commercialized than it was before. I was disappointed. Gary, however, found a special hat that he bought. He was happy.

Lodging in Freeport is not cheap. We tried an Econolodge, thinking it would be reasonable. They had rooms, but at $119 plus tax, with all discounts applied. Too much. We saw a Super 8 up the road and went there. They had rooms, but wanted $109 plus tax. While we were talking and trying to decide what to do, two guys on bikes asked about a room, and got the same price. While we were all talking, the manager walked outside and offered the rooms at $99 plus tax. We took a room and they took a room. Not cheap, but adequate.

To sum up the day, it was riding from point A to point B. We covered 535 miles, the most of any day on the trip.

Tomorrow: Freeport to ?

Saturday, August 8, 2009

Freeport, ME to White River Junction, VT

Today was a good day and a sad day. It truly marked the beginning of the end of this adventure. We were now on the way home.

We rode from the hotel into the mountains of Vermont. It was a cool morning, clear and bright. The roads were pretty empty and the riding was easy. We rode easy, not in a particular rush, enjoying the roads and the ride. We basically spent the day just riding and having a good time.

As the day was expiring, we found a hotel in White River Junction that had a room available, so we stopped for the night.

After we checked in, we went for a good walk and decided to have dinner at a Chinese buffet across the street. It was fairly good.

Back to the room, it was time to blog. So, I got the computer out and tried to connect to the Internet. It would connect to the network at the hotel but could not get an IP address. So, I called technical support for help. Four calls later, I hung up on them; they were absolutely no help, telling me it was my computer. It made no difference that I had used it successfully all over New England and Nova Scotia. I went to the front desk to ask if they would reset the switch, which they agreed to do. I went back to the room and tried, unsuccessfully to connect. All in all, I spent probably two hours with no luck.

Just before quitting for the night, I made sure they were aware that it was not successful.

In checking out the next morning, I reminded them of the problem, and they did not charge us for the night's stay. It was the right thing to do.

Mileage for the day was about 240.

Tomorrow--Seriously getting on the road home.

Thursday, August 6, 2009

Shubenacadie, NS to Dartmouth, NS

Today was a good day. We got up, had some coffee, and went next door to the restaurant for breakfast. We were the first to arrive, and walked into an empty place. After a minute tor two, we knocked on the door to see if anyone was in the kitchen, and the cook, a German woman, came into the dining room. She stated that she was the only one there, and would be the only one all day. Poor woman! This is the same woman who had a good appreciation for our bikes and who kidded that she wanted to ride on the back of mine.

We ordered, and helped ourselves to coffee and water. She seemed to appreciate our willingness to help out. In a bit, the food arrived and what a meal she delivered! I ordered an omelette with cheddar cheese and bacon, and it was definitely filled with cheddar cheese and bacon. And there were 3 slices of bacon on the side! On top of that, it was very good. They ordered pancakes and bacon, and were very pleased with their meals. Breakfast was a hit!

After breakfast, we packed up, got on the bikes, and went to the big bridge to see the bore tide arrive. It was due to arrive at 11:55am. We got there at 10:45am, in plenty of time to see it. They went to an observation platform over the river, and I went under the big bridge.

When I got to where I was going to watch it, there was a creek emptying into the river about 100 yds away. So, I walked to the creek, where there were a bunch of kids playing. What they were doing was mud sliding, where they sat on their behinds and slid down the creekbank to the creek. They were having a huge ball!

The creek bank is red mud. It does not have rocks or other hard things in it, so the mud is safe to play in. And play they did. I took some pics and watched them play for quite a while, waiting on the tide to come. The water in the creek (as well as in the river) is as red as the Yadkin River, which is always red from erosion. This river is also full of silt from erosion, but it's primarily naturally occuring due to the red mud banks.

Finally, at around 12:20, the bore tide arrived. I was disappointed that it was not a wave or a rush of water, but instead just a little water trickling from the opposite direction of normal flow. But as it continued coming, the river, which was pretty narrow in the beginning, became wider and deeper. Within about 30 minutes, the river was a raging river, flowing "uphill" due to the tide. Pretty neat phenomenom.

I went back to the creek area, and it was now a full creek, with several boatloads of kids playing in the mud. They were having a ball.

When we had seen enough,we got on the bikes and headed for Peggy's Cove, just south of Halifax. The ride to Peggy's Cove was on a four-lane highway, and went fast and easy.

Once in Peggy's Cove, we had lunch and did tourist things. Peggy's Cove is a neat tourist trap, with a lighthouse located on huge granite boulders out on a point. Very picturesque and a pretty place. The granite boulders were very pretty; I enjoyed seeing them and walking all over them.

We bought a few souvenirs and then left for the motel in Dartmouth. Tonight is Linda's last night of the adventure; she flies back home tomorrow morning.

Our ride today was about 112 miles.

Tomorrow--leave for home.

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Truro, NS to Shubenacadie, NS

Another pretty day. Since we had been up late the night before, we slept a little later than usual. About 9am we started moving. We had decided the night before that we wanted to go to Burncoat to see the bore tide in another neat place. We figured it would be there about noon, so we had plenty of time.

After getting packed, we went to Tim Horton’s for breakfast. Tim Hortons is a fast food restaurant chain prevalent in Canada. It seems that Tim Horton was a big hockey player who did well and started the restaurants when he got out of hockey. The restaurants range from small drive-in only places for breakfast to others that are pretty big and offer sandwiches, soups, salads in addition to breakfast items.

After breakfast, we started towards Burncoat, which we thought was just a few miles away. It turns out that it’s much further than we thought. The tide also runs much faster than we thought. Long story made short, we missed it! Damn!

As we were riding along the river towards Burncoat, the river was essentially empty for a long time. Then we went a short way where we could not see the river. When we spotted it again, it was much fuller with water. We couldn’t tell if it was due to there just being more water or due to the oncoming tide. As it turned out, it was the tide.

So, we jumped back on the bikes and raced back about 18 miles to a bridge where we hoped to see it. Again, too late. We missed the bore tide in this much larger body of water.

While at the bridge, we talked to a young man who was filming for a local TV station. He was bored, so he asked us some questions that were very thought provoking. Like “What advice would you give young people?” and “What do you think is a place I should go when I can?” He was a very impressive young man.

When we left, we decided to start looking for a place to stay for the night, somewhere in the area since we wanted to see the bore tide again. After consulting with a small tourist help station, we headed out to find something suitable.

After a bit of riding, we found Tidal Bore Rafting Park, an outfit near the river that has cottages, a restaurant, and various excursions on the river playing with the bore and the water. Pretty neat. So, we stayed there.

We rested a bit and then put the gear back on and got on the bikes, headed to Burncoat to see the low tide. Since we knew the restaurant would be closed before we got back, we decided to stop at a local grocery store for something for dinner. A pizza sounded good, and we found one, along with some beer and wine.

From there, we rode to Burncoat, walked down to the river, and saw it at low tide. From the low water mark to the high point is about 50 feet! We took some pics and left for the cabin and dinner. The pizza was very good.

So, that was the day. We rode about 135 miles for the day.

Tomorrow—Bore tide, Peggy’s Cove, and back to Halifax

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Goose River, PEI to Truro, NS

Another beautiful day. We woke to completely blue skies; not a cloud in sight. I woke at 7am, earlier than I had wanted, but could not go to sleep.

We had borrowed coffee from our hostess, Ms. Warren last night, and Linda had prepared the coffee, so I turned the coffeemaker on and made coffee. Since they were not up yet, I sat on the deck and looked at the ocean about 200 yards away. It was so quiet; nothing could be heard but nature. No cars. No horns. No sirens. Just quiet, which was very nice.

In a while, they got up and we had coffee and biscuits out on the deck. A friendly dog came up to be petted, so Gary and I took turns petting him. He ran from cottage to cottage to be petted as people came out of their cottages. Seeing his excitement as we scratched and rubbed him made me want one for myself. I need a motorcycle dog!

After breakfast, we packed up and got on the bikes, heading west. Our ride today was fairly uneventful. The roads carve through farming communities and harbors. They must grow a huge supply of potatoes. They also must make a lot of milk, judging by the number of huge dairy farms we passed.

Finally, it was time to head south towards the Confederation Bridge that connects PEI with New Brunswick. It is the toll bridge ($17) that allows you to leave the island. It is eight miles long and crosses the Northumberland Strait. It’s an impressive bridge. The riding was easy; the wind was from the south, so we were riding into it. Had there been big easterly or westerly winds, it could have been difficult on the bikes.

Our destination today was Truro, NS. It is at the head of the famed Fundy Bay, and is the place where the highest recorded tides are found. Tidal surges of about 45 feet happen daily, and the Bore Tide occurs when the high tide overruns waters in the bay. We had seen a bore tide in Alaska, and want to see one here. The next bore tide is supposed to happen tonight at 12:30am. I believe we’re going to try to see it—hopefully the moon will be bright enough to let us see it.
Today’s ride was 262 miles. Total mileage for the two weeks on the road is now 3,190 miles.

PS. We wanted to see the bore tide, and did. We went out to the end of Tidal Bore Road (a fitting name) and watched it come in. It was pretty neat; they had placed 4 picnic tables at the end of the road for viewing. We were first there, so we grabbed one and sat to wait. About 30 minutes before it was due to arrive, some flood lights turned on, lighting the waterway below us.

As the time drew closer, we could hear rushing water, sounding a little like surf without the breakers. It got louder and louder as it got closer. Finally, it arrived, a small wave of water over the other water. It was not big, but still impressive. Then the waterway started filling up with brown, muddy water. In about 30 minutes, we had seen what we came to see, so we left.

Tomorrow—Another Bore Tide and who knows.

Monday, August 3, 2009

Strait of Canso to Goose River, Prince Edward Island

The day started with rain showers. Lots of them! So, we piddled around with breakfast at the motel and taking our time with getting packed up.

About 10:30am the rain stopped up, so we quickly got on the bikes and headed west towards the ferry for Prince Edward Island. By asking the right questions, we learned that it costs to leave PEI, but not to go onto the island. But they charge to leave the island! Isn’t that wild. And the good news is that leaving the island via ferry would have cost us about $60, but leaving the island via bridge (which we plan to do) will cost $17. So, we’re getting our first bargain of the trip.

From the Straits of Canso to where the ferry leaves is about 86 miles or so. We headed due west fot the ferry landing. Traffic was light, and the showers did not pick up again, so it was a good and easy ride.

We knew the ferry left at 12:30pm, so we wanted to make that one if possible, because the next one would be two hours later. But we had no idea whether or not we’d make it in time.

Just a few kilometers from the landing at Pictu, a rush of traffic from the opposite direction started, so we knew the ferry was unloading. And, we had an idea that there would be high demand because today (Monday, August 03, 2009) is a national holiday (Natal Day), and people would be ending a long weekend.

As we got to the ferry landing, they pointed to a lane with no vehicles in it. The other lanes were full of cars, trucks, vans, RVs, busses, and big trucks. We had no idea if we’d make this ferry or not.

After waiting in our lane about two minutes, they waved us forward. They put us in the lower deck with the big trucks, which was fine with us. What luck! We made the 12:30 ferry with no delay or problem.

We tied the bikes down and went upstairs to wait out the 75 minute ride to Wood Islands. The ferry ride was uneventful.

Once in Wood Islands, we went to the Information building to find a place for the night. The people were helpful, but not as helpful as at Cape Breton Island. Lori at CBI was very helpful, making recommendations and actually making our reservations earlier. At PEI, they would answer questions, but we had to use the Internet to find possible places and then make the phone calls.

After a bit of searching, we found a place that met our criteria. A cabin on the shore, with water in-view of the cabin, and at least two double beds. We found Warren Cabins near St Peters Bay on the north shore of PEI that met our criteria. So, we found and secured lodging.

After that, we basically rode east, then north, and then west to the cabin. It met our needs.

Some unique things about PEI. It is an agricultural area, at least on the northeast portion. . Potatoes are grown, along with wheat and some other crops I couldn’t determine. This part of the island is almost flat, with deep red soil. It appears that people own farming land to the ocean’s edge, with no road right against the beaches. The beaches are sandy, but the land drops straight off to the beach, and above the beach is deep, loamy red soil. The waves on the beach are very small, making me wonder why, with so much water out there. Looking at the maps, now I think I understand; the St Lawrence Bay is big, but there is a fairly narrow opening between Newfoundland and Cape Breton Island, providing a large protected area. Nothing like this in North Carolina!

We found food at a restaurant about 10kilometers away; a good dinner of fried clams, seafood chowder (I’m getting addicted to the seafood chowder up here) and a salad. Because the restaurant does not serve breakfast, we bought biscuits with jelly and butter while there and borrowed coffee from our hostess.

Oh, and there was one very concerned moment. When we arrived at the restaurant, I noticed that the loose ends of my RocStrap straps were down and entangled with the rear axle of the bike. Not a good thing; down in that area, they could do real damage to the rear brake assembly. I tried pulling them out, but they were clearly wrapped around the axle mechanism. I then rolled the bike backwards while Gary pulled. Thankfully, they came loose. That could have been a huge problem if they had gotten tightly wound around the rear wheel/axle.

After dinner, we went over to the nearby docks to see any fish being brought in. We were told that someone had caught a 600 pound Tuna that would be brought in very soon. No boats had any fish, so we rushed back to the cabin to watch the sunset over the ocean. Beautiful.

When we got back to the cabin, it was almost sunset. So, we rushed to the shore, where there were some chairs, and watched the sun dip into the ocean. It was very pretty. One neat factoid; once the sun touches the sea, it is gone in almost exactly five minutes.

After sunset, back to the cabin for the night.

A good day, with interesting things going on most of the day and a sensational sunset over the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

Mileage for the day was 188 miles; an easy day in the saddle.
Tomorrow: More of PEI and who knows??

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Cape North, New Breton to Strait of Canso

Ok, I have Internet access tonight, so I'm doing several posts. I've been without it for 3 previous nights, and I'm behind in posting. I've written something for every day, but sometimes I can't post as I want.

Today was another good day. We got up and rode to the convenience/gas/grill/bakery store about a quarter of a mile to the south for breakfast. They had coffee and pastries, so we had a blueberry turnover and coffee. Not bad!

From there, we headed south on the Beach road to White Point. It was reached by riding a curving road that terminated at a boat launch in a small village. Well, village is too big--it was just several houses and some fishing shacks. At the end of the road was a trail leading towards the water. So, we got off the bikes and started walking down this penninsula towards the water. We walked for about 25 minutes or so to a very beautiful place.

The trail curved and changed elevation, first going uphill, then downhill. I can't fully describe it, but if you close your eyes and picture Scotland, I think you'll have some idea of what it looked like. Green everywhere there was land, but rolling up and down to the cliff's edge, where the green stopped and the rocks began. Just beautiful.

Just before we got to the point, we came across a cemetary; a cabled off place with several headstones and many rocks. One plaque said "The Unknown Sailor". I did not count the stones, but I would guess there were maybe a dozen stones, with two definite headstones there. Above the cemetary was a white cross to mark the cemetary. Somehow it was very fitting; a rugged, rock strewn shore, and a peaceful place for the bodies to rest.

We walked on to the end of this piece of land, and I had to get my feet in the Atlantic Ocean. So, I climbed down to the water (not easy, but not dangerous) to a layer of rocks ground round and smooth by the never ceasing waves. Then down to the water. Got my boots wet and put my hand in it; not as cold as I imagined it to be. Now, I've dipped my hand in the water of the Atlantic Ocean as far south as Key West and as far north as White Point, Cape Breton. That's about as far as I'll probably ever go. Of course, I have dipped it in the Gulf of Alaska, probably my northernmost point, but in an other body of water.

Walking back, I felt serene, knowing I had been to a very special place where not a lot of people have been, and where some will remain forever.

We continued to ride south (about 5 miles) to Neal's Harbor. There, we found another lighthouse and another chowder restaurant. So, we had lunch. Mine was a fish chowder, which was very good. We ate at a picnic table out on a point just 150 feet or so from the ocean. The sunny skies, coupled with a sea breeze, the waves crashing on the rocks below made for a delightful lunch. I could have stayed there the rest of the day. The place was perfect!

But we needed to make some time, so we headed on southward, towards the south end of Cape Breton Island.

The rest of the day was unremarkable except for the motel. We got the last room at the Cove Motel near the Canso Causeway. On the water, it was the first regular motel since leaving Halifax. It's nice to have in-room coffee, a real restaurant, coin washer and dryer for a change. The meal was excellent, and I'm a happy camper tonight.

We rode about 188 miles today. My mileages are pretty inexact; I'm too lazy to go out to the bike at night to get actual mileages, so don't hold me to correct numbers.

Tomorrow--Over to Prince Edward Island

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Whitehead, Cape Breton to Cape North, Cape Breton

What a day! It started with a great breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, toast, and an orange marmalade scone. All very good. Especially after a dinner of peanut butter crackers and peanuts.

The hosts, Linda and Dave Monro were very friendly. We talked about the house, 101 years old that had belonged to her grandfather, having been built by her great-uncle. They have lived in it for 10 years after Dave completely remodeled it. He did an excellent job in his work. Each bedroom has a floor that is painted a different color.

After talking and visiting with them for a while, we packed the bikes and hit the road.

It had rained overnight, with some continuing drip from the heavens as we traveled north. After a while, the roads started to dry, and the temperatures climbed from 62 to 67 degrees. Not a bad start for a ride!

We rode to the causeway leading to Cape Breton Island, home of the famed Cabot Trail. I had heard about the Cabot Trail many times, and wanted to see what it was about. It reportedly was created by Henry Cabot long, long ago, and is in the Cape Breton Highlands.

As we rode along, the views are stunning. The St. Lawrence Bay was on the left side of the road, many miles wide. At places along the way, you can just barely see wisps of land on the other side. A few ships, mostly cargo-style dotted the waters.

We finally came to the Cabot Trail. What a road! It is in the northern part of the island, with mountains that run to the sea. The road is carved out of the side of the mountains, winding its way back and forth and up and down for many miles. Gorgeous vistas of mountains and seashore and blue skies. Just stunning!

At one point, Gary and his wife spotted two moose in a roadside ditch, but by the time I got there all I could see was the tail end of one as it entered the woods.

Speaking of wildlife, we’ve seen very little on this trip. I’ve seen two turkeys, one deer, and one moose. Of course, there have been some other common animals like squirrels and crows, but I’ve been disappointed at the quantity and diversity of wildlife on this trip.

We had reserved a room at Cape North, the MacDonald Motel, so having a place to stay was not a problem. We rolled into the motel at around 6pm, unloaded the bikes, and got back on them to ride to Meat Cove, a place where some riders on the big ferry had told me was a neat place to go. They spoke of a long, winding road that terminated in several miles of dirt road. At the end of the road is the Chowder Hut, a place that we were told had good food.

So, we did the road, 28km long, with the last 8km in dirt. While potholed, it was not a hard ride. At times, the road was almost directly overhanging the ocean.

At the Chowder Hut, the view was fantastic. We had dinner on the deck, overlooking Meat Cove, the northernmost spot on Cape Breton Island. How neat is that! As far as you can go, with great fish chowder overlooking the ocean. A perfect way to end the day.

After dinner, we rode back to the hotel for the night. A very very good day indeed.

Today’s ride was 225 miles.

Tomorrow—more of Cabot Trail and off Cape Breton Island towards Prince Edward Island.